Celinabean home-style fish taco

Fish tacos part two: theories and recipes

Fish tacos part 1

Pop-economist Tyler Cowen has a theory for sussing out restaurants that offer the best tasting food for the cheapest amount of money.

Oooohhhh, if only we'd studied stuff like this in my college econ classes. I might have gone to grad school and stuck with all those graphs and curves and never gone running for the hills of journalism. Well, probably not. But, still, it would have been fun.

Anyway, he advises avoiding high-rent areas and instead heading to out-of-the-way strip malls, preferably malls without an anchor store. He’s got a lot of tips and theories, but in essence the thinking goes that restaurants in unsexy places have to be destination-spot good to stay alive.

As soon as I read the story about him in the Washington Post, I thought of my brother's favorite taco joint near his home in Moss Landing, CA.

dry rub for fish tacos

It is tucked into a nondescript strip mall with a few other mom-and-pop shops. The mall - and that is stretch of the word for this motley row of shops - is in one of the few working class towns left on the Monterey Bay.

The restaurant is a small collection of basic tables and chairs and a bright collection of every kind of party decoration you can imagine. And for a few bucks you can walk out with a hot dance of spice and fried fish wrapped in warm corn tortillas plus a generous side of rice and black beans.

On my last visit, we hit the place several times, taking the tacos home to eat picnic style on his living room floor while sucking down Pacifico beers with lime wedges in them.

The meals were better than any that I’ve had in the mediocre restaurants that make up most of downtown Monterey.

Thinking about those fish tacos made me grab the car keys and head for the grocery store. I'd never tried to make fish tacos at home, but why not?

I went with tilapia. Cut it in bite size chunks and shook it in a dry rub. A dusting of cornmeal and into the hot canola oil.

I made my traditional doctored up can of beans and some rice and we were good to go. (except we didn’t have any Pacifico, boohooohooo.)

As you can see from the picture, we ate our fish and beans together. Not authentic fish tacos in any way. But that is the nice thing about cooking at home when no one else is looking. If you want pickles with your peanut butter so be it. If you like the beans in the taco with the fish, there is no one to know.

Here’s the recipe. If you are a stickler for authenticity, serve the beans on the side. Or in their own bean taco.


Fish tacos

Dry rub:

1 teaspoon adobo seasoning
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
(if you want more zing add cayenne pepper to taste 1/8 teaspoon to start)

Note: The adobo I use is very salty. If yours is not, you may want to add a 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

This is the base dry rub that I use. You can play around with flavors you like. A little thyme will make it more Caribbean, a dash of cinnamon will bring it toward North Africa.

Fish tacos:

4 tilapia fillets
1 cup cornmeal
Canola oil for frying

Corn tortillas, 2-4 per person

Sprinkle the fish with the dry rub until it is evenly coated, toss well, set aside for 30 minutes. If you are out of time, just go ahead and move on, don't sweat it.

Put the cornmeal in a bag. Add the fish and shake until the fish is lightly dusted. Remove and set on a plate near the stove so it is ready to fry.

Heat the oil in deep frying pan. I like non-stick or cast iron. You want enough oil so the fish will float, not sit on the bottom of the pan. You want the oil to be hot enough that the fish will bubble if you dip a corner of it into the pan. When it is hot drop several fish pieces in. Don't pack them too tight. I usually fry in three batches.

Fry till golden brown on underside. Flip and fry till that side is golden brown. Remove and put on a paper towel to take away extra oil.

Serve as soon as possible. If the fish is too hot, drink more beer. (Pacifico, if possible)

Serve with diced tomato, avocado, lettuce and cilantro for sprinkling and bit of your favorite salsa to spoon on as you like.

For the bean mixture:
2 cans black beans, drained and rinsed well
1 can tomatoes, diced (if whole cut them small)
1 onion, diced
juice of half a lime
Adobo seasoning
cumin (about 1 teaspoon)

In saucepan, sauté onion until soft and starting to turn color. Season with adobo to taste. Add the beans. Add cumin and more adobo to taste. Add the tomatoes toss well and let cook down a bit (5 minutes or so). Add lime juice and stir well. Turn heat down and let simmer for another 10 minutes or so.

AllOverAlbany.com

Comments

You know, I've been saying something similar re: the best places to find good restaurants at a decent price, and it's nice to see it in print! Thanks!

My boyfriend bought me a tortilla press for Christmas, which we promptly used to make fish tacos. Homemade tortillas are amazing.

Also, Bros Tacos on Ontario and Morris makes some delicious and cheap fish tacos if you ever need a quick fix.

My sister's telling it like it is; here's my tip on salsa selection at the Mexican joint:
(condiments, I learned growing up, are at least as important as what's being condimented)
get both mild and hot salsa on your tacos, mild's usually diced tomatoes with a little bit of this and that, and hot's hot which makes the beer taste better. You might have to give your taco a little squeeze to drain it, but it's worth it.

moss landing bro--
every kitchen needs two refrigerators: one for condiments and beer, one for the condimented. This is so the first refrigerator door isn't torn off the hinges by heavy condiments like jars of ghee and tamarind paste and ginger paste and lime pickle and weird sprinkles and a sliding scale of hot sauces and whipped cream in a can (oh--isn't that a condiment if you eat it sprayed directly on the tongue?)

And speaking of the Central Coast of Cali--What about those taco stands--we're talking lower rent than strip malls--in Castroville and Salinas? With the long detailed wall menus in Spanish?

the condiment queen

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