Whole belly clams and coffee milk: A taste of Rhode Island in Albany

I grew up near the Oregon coast, but as much as I am loath to say it, the best fried clams I’ve ever tasted were in Rhode Island. Long, long ago in a far away galaxy of two incomes and no children, my husband and I used to do things like impromptu weekend getaways. And one of those getaways landed us on a foggy road outside some little town in Rhode Island. And there off the road was a seafood shack. And there on the menu was a dish this Oregon clam-country girl had never seen: whole belly clams.

Well, that was years ago and I still remember my first bite. A hot salty crunch that gave way to a mouthful of tender, ocean-sweet meat. Over the years I’ve often fantasized about moving to Rhode Island, and it usually starts with thoughts of whole belly clams.

Well, a few days ago I wandered into The Cousins for the first time in months. And on the fry counter was this sign:

I don’t eat fried food very often any more, but I decided to sample the clams. Research, you know…

They were good, but not great. Some of the clams were gritty, and some were so small and heavily coated that there was more crunch than clam. Still, some of them were tender bits of warm juicy meat. They would have been better had they come out of the oil a shade sooner.

When whole bellies are at their best, there is nothing that can touch them. But for now, The Cousin’s whole bellies are worth a try, but they aren’t as good as some of the other offerings. The haddock fish fry, the fried oysters, scallops and shrimp are all wonderful. If at all possible, eat there when the morsels are still so hot you have to suck air with each bite. I’ve tried to take them home to my grandmother, but they lose a lot in transit.

While on the Rhode Island theme…

You can get coffee milk at the Miss Albany Diner.

Owner Clifford Brown is from Rhode Island and believes in carrying on tradition.

A few things you should know about Miss Albany. Cash only. They close at 2 p.m. And this is not the place to bring little kids.

On the other hand, it is a great place to get a cup of coffee, a breakfast of soft scrambled eggs with cream cheese and read the paper. Or sit down and chat with Mr. Brown who can tell you anything you want to know about the history of diners (ask to see the photo album) or the romantic histories of area diner owners.